Kauai: The Napali Coast & North Shore Beaches

The view of Ke’e Beach from the Kalalau Trail

The Napali Coast

The Napali Coast is the feature most commonly used to distinguish Kauai from the other Hawaiian islands, and there is no shortage of photographs of these sea cliffs and valleys online. One reason they are so much more impressive in person, I think, is scale, and getting a real sense for the distance between the peaks (some taller than the Empire State Building) and the sea-level valleys.

On this trip, we saw the Napali Coast two ways: first, from the north, by hiking the first two miles of the Kalalau Trail, and later, from the south, at lookout points in Weimea Canyon as well as from the ocean on a boat tour. One of our few regrets from the trip is that we did not indulge in a helicopter ride over this area. The expense scared us away, but seeing in person how beautiful it is, we could have switched it out with other trip expenses to afford it. If you at all think it’s within your budget, we absolutely recommend it.

The Kalalau Trail is an 11 mile hike (each way) that starts at Ke’e beach (at the end of the Kuhio Highway) and ends at Kalalau Beach, where hikers often spend several nights camping before hiking the 11 miles back out. We know people who have done- and enjoyed- all 22 miles and the beach camping at the end of it, but we also knew right away that it wasn’t for us. Instead, we did four miles, two each way, to experience the hike and some of the views.

On the morning we hiked, we got to the parking lot early (I had read that it fills up quickly) and were on the trail by 8:30. It was nice to start early because it made an entire afternoon available to us to do something else, but the disadvantage was that it was raining for the first hour of the hike. Although it was refreshing while hiking uphill on a hot August day, it did obscure some of the beautiful vistas along the coast. It cleared up eventually, though (and was the only weather “issue” we had during the entire trip). All my pictures were taken on the way back.

The first 1/2 mile is the hardest, straight up from Ke’e beach, but with a rewarding view of the beach and then, to the south, the first view of the pali. On our way from here to Hanakapiaai Beach, we saw kayakers as well as a large group of dolphins. We spent almost an hour relaxing and walking around the beach (though watching a group of people swim in the huge waves, despite some pretty stark signs about others who have died doing so, was somewhat stressful) before heading back. The trail was full, and we especially passed a lot of hikers just starting out as we were finishing.

On the Kalalau Trail

The first view of the pali from the Kalalau Trail

Hanakapiaai Beach

Ke’e Beach

Ke’e Beach (featured in the very top photo in this post), located at the very end of the Kahio Highway, is small and shady, a place where a lot of families seemed to be camped out for the day. We spent a nice morning snorkeling and swimming here, though we ultimately preferred Tunnels Beach for snorkeling. I’ve read, though, that Ke’e is a great place to watch the sunset.

Because the beach shares a parking lot with the Kalalau Trail, spots were scarce (it would be a great place to swim right after the hike). We eventually found one along the road and were relieved not to come back to a ticket.

The entrance to Tunnels Beach

Tunnels Beach

This beach is highlighted for its snorkeling in the guidebooks, and they are absolutely right. We saw so many types of neon fish and textured coral, and we appreciated how big this area was because although it was crowded, it didn’t feel like we were fighting for space on the beach or bumping into other snorkelers in the water.

Parking, though, is rough. To get here, you’ll start by turning off the Kuhio Highway at Haena State Beach Park, which is unfortunately one of those places where parking is scarce enough to bring out the worst in people anxiously searching for a space. We were thankful to get a spot, but it was one of the few remaining, even in the morning. After parking, it is a bit of a slog carrying all our things a ways north to get to the best snorkeling.

We had an awesome afternoon here. When we were done, we appreciated that they have showers for washing off before bringing all that sand in the car, and we also bought fresh coconuts to drink from a man who had set up a stand in the parking lot.

Tunnels Beach

Sipping fresh coconut water before leaving Tunnels Beach

Visitors at Anini Beach

Anini Beach

Anini was more calm and less crowded than the beaches west of Hanalei. It had plentiful parking, with multiple entry points to the beach, and it would be easy to find a shaded spot, covered by pretty flowered trees.

We enjoyed our afternoon reading and swimming, but the highlight was snorkeling with the sea turtles who hung out close to the shore, looking for reeds (some were less than 30 feet out). It was incredible to see them in person and (even though we left them plenty of space) and to be so close to them in the wild, rather than to view them from the aquariums which had previously been the only other place I’d seen them.